We didn’t get tickets to go inside the Alhambra itself, but we did the Jardines y Generalife night visit and got to walk through the gardens and see the Alhambra again. The intricate Nasrid Islamic stucco and architecture was beautiful.

Not pictured: the strong scent of jasmine.

The Nasrid-era fortress walls and towers of the Alcazaba at the Alhambra glow with golden lighting at dusk, framed by manicured hedges and tall cypress trees under a clear evening sky.View of the Torre de la Vela at the Alhambra lit against a deep blue twilight sky, with the illuminated Albaicín neighborhood sprawling across the valley in the background under dramatic clouds.Night view of the Church of Santa María de la Alhambra, its richly textured brickwork and Renaissance details highlighted by exterior lighting, with cypress trees and nearby structures in shadow.Panoramic nighttime view of the Alhambra complex from a distance, with its illuminated towers and walls—including the Torre de Comares and Torre de la Vela—rising above treetops, and the lights of Granada city twinkling in the background.The Generalife’s Patio de la Acequia at night, with a central water channel bordered by arching fountains and symmetrical garden beds, leading toward a colonnaded hall adorned with intricate stucco work.Detailed view of ornate stucco and calligraphic inscriptions in Arabic from a wall and archway inside the Nasrid Palaces, showcasing the fine craftsmanship of Islamic architecture at the Alhambra.A rose-covered archway in the Generalife gardens at night, with clusters of coral-pink blooms climbing a metal trellis over a pebbled path, surrounded by rows of trimmed hedges and dark cypress trees.A quiet courtyard near the Generalife, with a small circular stone fountain in the foreground and a softly lit staircase leading to a doorway where a group of visitors stands under a warm light.Close-up of a wall covered in blooming jasmine, with dozens of star-shaped white flowers and dense green leaves brightly illuminated against the night.Nighttime view of the Alhambra complex from a distance, with its iconic towers and palace structures—such as the Alcazaba and Palacio de Carlos V—bathed in golden light against the dark hillside.

At the base of the church is the Mirador de San Nicolás, a plaza which is a beautiful viewpoint for seeing the Alhambra.

We didn’t stick around long enough for the actual sunset but still caught some great views. I would love to come again at sunset, or even dawn. 🌅

The Alhambra illuminated at dusk, with golden light highlighting the reddish stone walls and towers against a deepening blue sky. Cypress trees line the outer perimeter of the fortress, and the silhouettes of distant mountains frame the background.Wide view of the Alhambra in early evening light, perched above the Albaicín neighborhood of Granada. The terracotta roofs of whitewashed houses spread out in the foreground, with the fortress standing prominently above dense green vegetation and backed by distant mountains.Panoramic view of the Alhambra at sunset, bathed in warm light and framed by surrounding trees. A rooftop terrace with patrons is visible in the foreground, and the city of Granada extends into the distance under a soft, pale sky.Evening view of the Alhambra fully illuminated, stretching across the hilltop with golden floodlights emphasizing its towers and walls. Snow-capped mountains are faintly visible in the background, and the rooftops of the Albaicín appear in the foreground below.Panoramic twilight view of the Alhambra glowing under floodlights, with towers and walls sharply defined against a darkening sky. The rooftops of the Albaicín and several terrace structures are visible in the foreground, adding a sense of depth and scale.Narrow alleyway leading downhill with the Alhambra visible in the distance, softly lit against the night sky. A wall-mounted light casts a glow on the whitewashed buildings, and a utility pole covered in stickers is in sharp focus beside a wall with handwritten graffiti in Spanish.Framed nighttime view of the Alhambra glowing in the distance, seen between traditional Andalusian buildings with tile roofs and wooden balconies. Warm street lighting and the deep blue sky create a peaceful, atmospheric scene.

We walked up the bell tower at Iglesia de San Nicolás for some of the best views of Granada and the Alhambra.

Inside, the church has a glowing stained-glass ceiling that radiates with celestial color. The iconographic paintings echo Ethiopian Christian tradition with saints, symbols, and stories.

Two smiling people posing between whitewashed walls with a stunning panoramic view of the Alhambra in the background, perched on a lush hill above the city of Granada. The late afternoon sunlight casts a golden hue over the fortress and surrounding town, while mountains stretch along the horizon.Close-up view of the Alhambra’s reddish stone walls and towers, surrounded by dense greenery. The mountains in the distance and the clear blue sky enhance the dramatic setting of the historic Moorish palace and fortress.Interior of a chapel with a vivid, modern stained-glass ceiling in swirling colors, set above ribbed Gothic-style arches. Below, religious artwork and sculptures are displayed near an altar, blending traditional and contemporary elements.Upward view of a tall white bell tower with small arched openings, capped by a red-tiled roof. The clean lines and bright stucco façade contrast sharply against the deep blue sky.Vibrant religious mural depicting saints and holy figures in stylized, symmetrical arrangements. Rich gold and red tones, along with intricate patterns, highlight the iconographic Ethiopian Christian art style.Religious mural showing a group of saints and apostles surrounding the Virgin Mary, with flames of Pentecost above their heads and a white dove at the top symbolizing the Holy Spirit. Bold lines and bright, flat colors define the stylized iconography.Detailed view of a vivid stained-glass dome ceiling, composed of triangular panels radiating from a central point. The abstract artwork features a mix of bright blues, purples, and reds, creating a celestial effect against the Gothic architecture.Wide shot of the Alhambra complex on a wooded hill, with its full array of palaces, towers, and defensive walls clearly visible. The foreground includes white buildings and cypress trees of the Albaicín neighborhood, with the Sierra Nevada mountains in the distance.Bell tower made of pale brick and stone, viewed from a low angle against a clear sky. The red-tiled roof and architectural details highlight the Moorish and Andalusian influences typical of the area.Close-up of a white brick bell tower with a pair of arched openings near the top and Arabic calligraphy-style ornamentation just below the roof. The warm evening light accentuates the texture of the walls and wooden roof beams.

We went to Rincón de Rodri and really enjoyed their zamburiñas (scallops), paella de mariscos (seafood paella), gambas al ajillo (garlic shrimp), and tomate aliñado (seasoned tomato salad). For “free” (when we ordered drinks) they also gave us the fritura de gambas (fried shrimp).

Grilled scallops served in their shells, each delicately charred and topped with minced garlic and olive oil. The shells display natural hues of purple and white, enhancing the seafood’s golden sear and glistening texture. Presented on a white ceramic plate, the dish looks fresh, rich, and flavorful.A heaping plate of seafood paella with vivid golden-yellow rice, generously studded with green bell pepper, shell-on prawns, mussels, and a langoustine. The rice appears moist and glossy, capturing the essence of a well-made sofrito and rich seafood stock.A bowl of sizzling gambas al ajillo—plump shrimp and diced garlic swimming in hot olive oil. The prawns are pink and slightly curled, with golden garlic bits adding texture and a savory aroma. The oil’s sheen reflects the warmth and flavor of the dish.Heirloom tomato salad with a vibrant mix of red, purple, and green tomato wedges, generously drizzled with a bright green garlic and herb dressing. The tomatoes look juicy and ripe, and the chunky dressing gives a rustic, homemade appeal.A plate piled with crispy, golden fried shrimp served whole, including heads and tails, highlighting their crunchy texture. A dollop of creamy white sauce sits to the side, adding contrast and a hint of indulgence.A fresh seafood display behind glass at the bar, with various fish, shellfish, and crustaceans laid on crushed ice. The counter is lit from above, giving the seafood a vibrant, just-caught look, while the metallic surfaces and stacked wine boxes create an inviting, market-style ambiance.A chalkboard menu listing fresh seafood offerings in handwritten Spanish, framed in light wood. Items include gamba blanca, carabineros, zamburiñas, and ostras, with stars highlighting select dishes. The casual script and simple presentation evoke a sense of local charm and authenticity.

The Granada Cathedral is enormous. Inside, towering columns rise into sweeping arches that seem to hold up the entire sky. Even the “smaller” chapels lining the nave feel monumental. Each one is richly decorated and spacious enough to be a little church on its own.

The grand façade of the Granada Cathedral under a clear blue sky, illuminated by the warm afternoon sun. The Renaissance-style exterior features soaring pilasters, elaborate sculptural reliefs, and three monumental arched entrances. Crowds gather along the base, suggesting a popular event or gathering. The strong sunlight casts dramatic shadows, emphasizing the depth and detail of the stonework.View of the cathedral’s soaring nave leading to the main altar, framed by towering white columns and vaulted ceilings. The richly ornamented apse glows with golden highlights, housing rows of paintings and stained-glass windows that bathe the interior in multicolored light. Visitors walk quietly among pews, admiring the architectural grandeur and spiritual ambiance.Dramatic upward view of the cathedral’s domed sanctuary, crowned with a celestial blue ceiling adorned with golden stars. Ornate gold detailing and stained-glass windows encircle the dome, while a silver altarpiece shimmers below, surrounded by fresh pink flowers. The composition draws the eye upward, showcasing the majestic verticality and intricate beauty of the space.Baroque side chapel dripping in golden ornamentation, with intricate swirling carvings and religious figures embedded into the walls. A statue of the Virgin Mary stands at the center of the altar, framed by radiant light and surrounded by rich textures. Two visitors gaze up in awe, emphasizing the overwhelming visual impact of the chapel’s lavish design.Close-up of the cathedral’s opulent pipe organ, mounted above eye level on a gilded platform. A cascade of polished metal pipes fans outward from the ornately carved golden housing, contrasting with the crisp white architecture of the surrounding columns and vaulted ceiling. The composition highlights the grandeur and craftsmanship of the instrument.Side altar framed by rounded white columns and golden trim, featuring a gilded retablo adorned with religious paintings. A central crucifixion scene is flanked by smaller panels, each rich in color and emotion. The setting is contained behind a low metal gate, underscoring its sacred significance within the larger church interior.Another elaborately decorated side altar, showcasing a golden Gothic-style altarpiece beneath an arched ceiling richly painted with ornamental patterns. Above the altar, stained-glass windows filter colored light, enhancing the visual warmth of the gold leaf and stone textures. The surrounding area is framed by white marble columns and filigree details.Close-up view of a stained-glass window set into an ornately decorated stone wall. The vibrant panel depicts religious figures in richly colored robes, their expressions solemn and reverent. Below the window, a gilded architectural element with curving forms and rounded plaques adds depth and texture to the composition.Circular stained-glass window featuring two male religious figures, one older and bearded in brown robes, the other younger in blue. The window is inset into a plain white wall with minimal decoration, allowing the vibrant colors and expressive detail of the glasswork to stand out dramatically against the surrounding simplicity.Vaulted ceiling detail with a symmetrical ribbed pattern, featuring floral and scroll motifs carved in white stone. The design showcases the intricacy of Gothic vault construction, with intersecting arches and decorative bosses creating a harmonious, geometric composition that draws the eye toward the center.

Twice we went to Restaurante Oliver. We loved the alcachofas con almejas (artichokes with clams), almejas chirlas (clams in broth), and the tartar de atún rojo (tuna tartare).

For “free” (when we got drinks) they served us arroz, pescado frito, patatas, and the bocadillo de atún con patatas fritas.

Braised artichoke hearts served upright and filled with a rich tomato-based sauce, topped with small clams in their shells. The artichokes have slightly crisped outer leaves and sit in a pool of the vivid red sauce, adding warmth and intensity to the presentation.A generous portion of small clams in their shells, served in a light green garlic and parsley broth with a wedge of lemon. The clams glisten in the sauce, showcasing their tenderness, while the lemon adds a bright visual accent.Finely diced tuna tartare arranged in a neat mound, glistening with a light marinade and garnished with minced garlic or ginger. Beside it, thin slices of avocado are elegantly fanned out, with a quenelle of creamy white sauce providing contrast in both color and texture.A portion of creamy rice cooked in a rich, saffron-hued broth with visible pieces of vegetables and seafood. The glossy, perfectly al dente grains and the warm orange tone suggest depth of flavor and careful preparation.Golden, crispy chunks of fried fish served simply on a white plate with a dollop of herb-flecked tartar sauce. The batter looks light and flaky, while the sauce adds a creamy and refreshing accompaniment.Two halves of a boiled potato served skin-on and topped with generous spoonfuls of thick green sauce, likely a parsley or herb aioli. The creamy texture of the sauce contrasts with the soft, steaming flesh of the potato.Two small toasted sandwiches filled with tuna, served with a side of golden potato chips. The crisp exterior of the bread contrasts with the soft interior, and the chips are thin and lightly salted.The restaurant’s chalkboard menu mounted on a tiled wall, with classic Spanish dishes written in white chalk under the header “Oliver Restaurante.” The background includes decorative illustrations of seafood, and coffee beans and mugs are visible below, adding character to the setting.

On Monday we went to the Monasterio de San Jerónimo in Granada, a 16th-century monastery that was occupied by Napoleon’s troops during his occupation of Spain in the 19th century. Wild!

Around the cloister garden, dozens of tombstones marked the graves of monks from centuries ago.

Ornate view of the main altar from the nave, showcasing the intricate gilded altarpiece with multiple tiers of religious figures framed by elaborately carved architecture. The domed ceiling above is richly decorated with painted panels and reliefs, while stained glass windows cast colored light into the grand interior. Towering columns and mural-covered walls add to the sense of grandeur.Upward perspective of the stone bell tower and ornate facade, seen against a clear blue sky. The structure features Renaissance-style carvings, a sculpted relief above the main entrance, and detailed coats of arms, emphasizing the building’s historical and architectural richness.Marble grave marker inscribed with the name “Fr. Carlos Dávalos” and the year 1652, set among worn terracotta tiles. The engraved stone stands out against the earthy floor, evoking the long history of the site and its monastic inhabitants.Peaceful courtyard garden with neatly trimmed hedges and rows of lush orange trees laden with fruit. In the background, the upper structure of the monastery rises with stone balustrades, arched windows, and decorative pinnacles under a vivid blue sky.Simple monastic dining hall with long wooden tables and benches lining both sides of the room. Soft natural light enters through small square windows, highlighting the whitewashed walls and brick floor. Religious paintings, including a rendition of the Last Supper, adorn the walls beneath exposed wooden beams.View of the bell tower rising above a courtyard of orange trees, with sunlight filtering through the foliage. The tower’s stone facade features arched openings and a small cross at the top, while the vibrant greenery below creates a serene contrast to the golden stone.Side-angle view of the richly detailed altarpiece, composed of multiple niches filled with polychrome religious statues and gold accents. The vaulted ceiling above is intricately carved and painted, adding depth and drama to the vertical space.Close-up of the upper portion of the altarpiece, highlighting expressive sculpted figures arranged in narrative scenes. The gold-trimmed architectural elements frame each panel, while painted reliefs and figures convey intense emotion and devotion.Fresco of a winged saint painted on a column, depicted in ornate armor holding a shield and sword while standing atop a defeated dragon. Surrounding floral motifs and decorative patterns enrich the scene, reflecting the artistic detail throughout the church interior.Altarpiece framed by soaring columns and detailed frescoes, featuring statues of saints and biblical figures set against a painted backdrop. Above, three arched stained glass windows illuminate the richly decorated apse, bringing light and color into the sacred space.

Málaga

Málaga was a small, beautiful, touristy beach city with a lot to offer.

These are all the posts I made about the city:

Overall, I loved being by the coast and everything that comes with that: fresh air, ocean breezes, and not-as-hot weather.

I really enjoyed the restaurants we found—I would say the quality didn’t reach as high as Sevilla but they were still great. We went back to Mesón Mariano, El Pimpi, and Mesón Antonio a few times; I wish we had a chance to go back to El Tintero.

It was quite a hike, but I really enjoyed the sights from Castillo de Gibralfaro (and to a lesser extent, the Alcazaba). The Catedral was nice but doesn’t compare to the Catedral de Sevilla. The Picasso museum was fun to walk through and isn’t that large.

Our Airbnb in the city center was perfect, and the main part of the city is so small it’s easy to walk around everywhere. We used the bus system to get down to El Tintero; we learned to just use the local bus system’s app instead of depending on Apple or Google Maps (both seemed incorrect).

Overall, I’d be happy to come back to Málaga, and I’d be really excited to stay along the coast to soak up the full beach vibes.

Panoramic view of Málaga from a high vantage point, showing a vibrant cityscape bordered by the Mediterranean Sea on the left and mountains in the background. Notable landmarks include the Málaga Cathedral with its prominent tower, the Alcazaba fortress below it, and the port with docked cruise ships. The foreground features lush greenery and historic buildings, while the sprawling urban area stretches out under a clear blue sky.Close-up of a richly decorated entrance to the Málaga Cathedral, featuring a marble lion statue in the foreground holding a shield. Behind it, the grand wooden doors are framed by intricate stonework, twisted columns, and a colorful coat of arms with religious figures carved in relief. The composition emphasizes the detail and craftsmanship of the Baroque façade.View looking up at the Málaga Cathedral’s bell tower with a clock, framed on the left by traditional Spanish apartment buildings with wrought-iron balconies. The tall tower, with visible bells and ornate stone details, stands against a partly cloudy sky, capturing the architectural elegance and vertical prominence of the structure.Front façade of the Atarazanas Market featuring a large, colorful stained-glass window depicting historical scenes, including ships and classical buildings. The window is set within a cast-iron frame of the market’s industrial architecture. A lively crowd of people walks, cycles, and shops in the foreground, adding energy and movement to the scene.Downward view from a balcony onto a narrow, shaded street lined with classic Andalusian buildings with iron railings and wooden shutters. The perspective leads the eye through the pedestrian path below, where a few people stroll or push strollers. Soft light and pastel-colored walls give the image a warm, inviting feel.Corner of a weathered stone wall built from a mix of stones and bricks, shown against a deep blue, cloudless sky. The aged texture and rustic construction suggest historical significance, evoking the character of ancient fortifications.Close-up of decorative floor tiles featuring a geometric pattern composed of interlocking stars. A central blue hexagon is surrounded by black and brown triangles forming a six-pointed star, repeated across the surface. The symmetry and bold color contrast create a visually striking and intricate design.

A few food mentions:

Los Patios de Beatas (photos 1–3) was delicious.

Claus Bakery (4–5) was our go-to breakfast spot.

Churros and chocolate at Casa Aranda (6) were a treat.

El Café de Chinitas (7) had a perfect tomato salad.

Puerta Oscura (8–9) had the worst margaritas but a great interior.

A composed dish featuring a golden potato mille-feuille topped with finely chopped beef tartare, mixed with pickles or green herbs, and finished with a dollop of glossy black caviar. The dish sits on a glass plate, with a layer of creamy sauce beneath the potato adding contrast.Two pieces of white fish crusted with black and white sesame seeds are served in a shallow green sauce and topped with thin crisps. The glossy broth-like sauce surrounds the fish, adding richness and contrast to the crunchy sesame coating.A portion of ensaladilla generously topped with a creamy yellow sauce and garnished with microgreens and a crispy element. The potato-based salad is plated on a dark slate, with some of it already eaten, showing its soft, rich texture.A cozy café interior with teal tiled walls, warm wood accents, and hanging filament bulbs. Behind the counter are pastries, fresh eggs, and coffee-making gear, while a display case on the right showcases cakes and baked goods, creating a charming, artisanal atmosphere.A dessert display filled with cheesecakes and baked goods labeled by flavor—like mango, fresa, lotus, and banoffee. The slices rest on turquoise plates in a chilled case, with cookies and other treats above them on wooden trays.A classic Spanish breakfast of crisp, golden churros on a metal plate, served with a thick cup of hot chocolate and a glass of café con leche. The churros look light and airy, ideal for dipping in the rich chocolate.A fresh tomato salad featuring chunks of multicolored heirloom tomatoes dressed in olive oil and sprinkled with flaky salt and chopped herbs. The tomatoes glisten with seasoning, highlighting their ripeness and juiciness.A pale yellow Margarita served in a coupe glass with a sugared rim, resting on a coaster from Puerta Oscura. The foamy surface and elegant presentation suggest a carefully crafted cocktail.An elegant bar interior with plush velvet chairs, chandeliers, ornate frames, and religious art. The space combines vintage charm with a moody, intimate atmosphere perfect for a relaxed evening drink.

Some of my favorite moments from walking around Málaga—from churches and fortresses to street art, quiet alleys, playful shop displays, and more. The city was bustling with tourists, although I tried to avoid them in my shots.

Not pictured: the refreshing air from being right next to the sea.

Facade of the Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón in Málaga, featuring three ornate Neo-Gothic spires, pointed arches, pinnacles, and a large rose window above the entrance. Warm light enhances the pale stone against a clear blue sky.Spanish poem handwritten in white chalk on a rough beige wall in Málaga, reading: “Extrañarte es como intentar respirar bajo el agua y esta noche estoy durmiendo bajo el fondo del océano,” expressing intense longing and emotional isolation.View of the stepped brick walls of the Alcazaba of Málaga descending toward the city. Tourists stand atop the fortress, with the modern port and container cranes visible beyond, under a deep blue sky.Twilight scene on Calle Carretería, a narrow uphill street lined with scooters, pedestrians, and traditional buildings with balconies and lit lanterns, capturing the peaceful evening atmosphere in the historic center.Elevated view of La Manquita, the unfinished bell tower of Málaga Cathedral, standing above red-tiled rooftops and modern buildings. In the background, the blue silhouette of Andalusian mountains stretches across the horizon.Fortified towers and walls of the Alcazaba seen from a landscaped path below, bordered by palm trees and lush greenery. Visitors walk along the path on a bright, sunny day, approaching the ancient fortress.Quiet alleyway in Málaga’s old town lined with elegant 19th-century buildings in pastel tones. Sunlight reflects off polished stone pavement, and a person sits in a recessed doorway, adding a sense of calm and solitude.Crowded street scene with the cathedral towering between rows of historic apartment buildings. Open balconies, shop signs, and a partly cloudy sky frame the Gothic-Renaissance cathedral.Decorated balconies in Málaga’s city center, featuring maroon velvet fabric with gold tassels and a Spanish flag with a detailed coat of arms hanging from a wrought-iron bar.Storefront display of colorful graphic prints on postcards or posters. Designs include: Einstein riding a bike with atoms as wheels; a Málaga city collage; jamón ibérico with “Just eat it”; Snoopy saying “I’m not old, I’m classic”; beer chemical formula; Málaga del Sol design; a paddle tennis joke chart; and “Chicken Game: Don’t look at the chicken” with a cartoon bird labeled “Game Over.”

Mesón Antonio was one of our go-to dinner places during the week.

Our favorites were the alcachofas rotas con huevo frito y jamón (fried artichokes with egg and ham), ensalada de aguacate (avocado salad), zamburiñas al Pil Pil (zamburiñas in sauce), and almejas del Cantábrico (steamed clams).

A hearty plate featuring a crispy-edged fried egg with a soft, runny yolk placed over a generous layer of golden-brown artichoke hearts. The dish is finished with a scattering of finely diced cured ham, adding rich color and texture. Presented on a rustic red ceramic plate that enhances its warmth and visual appeal.A fresh and vibrant salad made with thick slices of ripe avocado fanned out over a bed of iceberg lettuce, all lightly coated with olive oil and flecked with finely chopped herbs. The glossy surface of the avocado and the crispness of the lettuce offer a clean, appetizing presentation on a white plate.Grilled shellfish served in natural scallop shells, topped with a glistening garlic and parsley sauce that has caramelized slightly at the edges. The scallops appear plump and golden, and they rest on a base of curly lettuce leaves arranged on a decorative plate.A generous serving of steamed clams in a fragrant broth of garlic, white wine, and herbs. The clamshells are open, revealing tender, juicy meat, with flecks of parsley for color and lemon slices on the side to brighten the flavors. Served in a deep red ceramic bowl.A bright and refreshing cold salad composed of flaky salt cod, boiled potato chunks, and juicy orange wedges. Everything is lightly dressed with olive oil and garnished with sliced green onions, offering a mix of creamy, citrusy, and savory elements on a white plate.An angled view of a wine rack filled with bottles stacked horizontally, each sealed with a red foil capsule and silver-colored top embossed with a stylized leaf design. The repetitive arrangement and subtle reflections on the dark glass create a visually elegant and orderly composition.

On Friday we went to the Picasso museum—he was born in Málaga! It was great to see classics like Lola with a Doll, but I enjoyed the Man Looking at a Sleeping Woman and his Cubist portraits the most.

A new exhibit by Farah Atassi opened the same day. Her paintings echo some of Picasso’s styles.

A black-and-white photograph of Pablo Picasso’s studio at Rue Schoelcher, Paris, showing numerous Cubist artworks in various stages of completion. A large canvas prominently displays a fragmented figure playing a guitar, likely from Picasso’s Synthetic Cubism period, where bold lines and overlapping planes build abstracted forms. The space is filled with paintings, drawings, and sculptural props, highlighting the artist’s intense productivity and experimental process in early 20th-century modernism.A somber early portrait painted by Picasso showing a young girl seated in a studio interior, dressed in white and clutching a doll. Painted during his academic period, the work reflects his technical mastery in realism before transitioning to the Blue Period. The girl’s reflective gaze and the muted palette evoke emotional depth and psychological nuance, foreshadowing themes of solitude that recur in his later work.An unfinished neoclassical painting from Picasso’s return to figuration in the 1920s, depicting a seated man gazing at a reclining nude woman. Executed in graphite and oil, the male figure is partially modeled, while the woman remains a loose sketch. A bold red brushstroke in the background disrupts the classical harmony, exemplifying Picasso’s ongoing dialogue between tradition and avant-garde experimentation.A geometric, Cubist head of a woman painted in monochromatic blues and grays. This late work showcases Picasso’s mature Cubist language, where the face is fractured into sculptural forms that suggest depth and emotion through abstraction. The palette and angular construction lend the figure a statuesque solemnity, illustrating his ability to blend analytical Cubism with psychological expression.A dynamic portrait of a man wearing a hat, painted in 1971 during Picasso’s late period. The face is aggressively distorted with heavy brushwork and exaggerated features, exemplifying his expressive, almost grotesque self-reflection in old age. The vibrant blue and green background contrasts with the earthy flesh tones, underscoring the emotional intensity and raw vitality of Picasso’s final creative years.A Cubist still life incorporating collage and painting, featuring fragmented images of a restaurant table, food items, and signage. Words like “DÉJEUNER” and “DINER” are embedded within the scene, a hallmark of Picasso’s Synthetic Cubism. The piece blurs the boundary between everyday life and abstraction, showcasing his pioneering use of commercial typography and layered forms to challenge traditional still life conventions.A stylized female figure rendered in muted earth tones and angular Cubist forms. The figure’s torso and face are constructed through overlapping geometric planes, a technique emblematic of Picasso’s Analytic Cubism phase. The abstraction emphasizes structural relationships over realism, turning the human figure into a visual architecture of form and color.Wall-mounted exhibition text in Spanish and English introducing “Farah Atassi: Genius Loci,” describing her stylistic references to Picasso and her unique reinterpretation of Cubist traditions through theatrical compositions and vibrant pictorial language.Contemporary painting of a stylized female figure seated on a wooden chair in a patterned black-and-white room. The background is composed of grid-like walls and a scattered arrangement of lemons and plants, blending figuration with decorative abstraction.Playful, stylized painting of a reclining woman in a geometric swimsuit on a pale green chaise lounge. Set in a pastel-striped room, the scene includes scattered oranges and abstract picture frames, combining leisure with flat, decorative design.

Twice we went to El Pimpi and loved the ensalada de pimientos asados con ventresca (peppers with tuna), cogollos de luchita con añito frito (lettuce with fried garlic), langostinos al pimpi (garlic shrimp), and the potaje de garbanzos, pulpo, y langostinos (chickpea, octopus, and shrimp stew).

Flaky, light brown fillet of tuna laid over a bed of roasted red and green bell peppers, finely chopped chives sprinkled on top, all served on a ceramic plate with blue decorative patterns.Wedges of fresh romaine lettuce lightly dressed with olive oil and topped with golden, crispy slices of garlic, arranged on a hand-painted ceramic plate with blue floral accents.Plump shrimp sizzling in hot olive oil with visible pieces of garlic and dried red chili peppers, served in a small black cazuela that captures the bubbling oil and rich golden tones of the dish.Hearty stew of chickpeas, shrimp, and pieces of octopus in a rich tomato-based broth, served in a deep blue-rimmed bowl with a rustic, home-cooked appearance.Tender meatballs in a thick golden sauce, garnished with blanched whole almonds and finely chopped chives, presented on a plain white plate that highlights the warm tones of the dish.Small round dish of Ensalada Malagueña, made of mashed potatoes topped with bright green olives, a slice of orange, a sliver of roasted red pepper, and a drizzle of vibrant yellow sauce, garnished with chopped chives.

We had a quick visit to the Catedral de Málaga, which is a massive Renaissance-style church built on the site of a former mosque.

The inside was incredible—the columns were absolutely massive, the ceilings were ornate, and the stained glass windows didn’t seem large but were beautiful.

Interior view of the grand altar inside the Málaga Cathedral, featuring soaring Corinthian columns, gilded architectural details, a richly decorated vaulted ceiling, and a large statue of the Virgin Mary surrounded by intricate carvings and stained glass windows. Visitors are seated quietly in the pews, admiring the awe-inspiring beauty.A statue of the Virgin Mary dressed in a richly embroidered robe and an ornate gold crown, flanked by large golden candle holders and flower arrangements. The black and gold backdrop features engraved religious scenes, contributing to a solemn and sacred atmosphere as visitors look on.A wooden crucifix of Christ on the cross positioned in front of a dramatic painting depicting a somber biblical scene. The surrounding arch is weathered, revealing patches of exposed stonework that contrast with the grandeur of the rest of the cathedral.A sculptural ensemble of religious figures in stone niches along a wall, framed by massive gray columns and elaborate ceiling vaults above. Warm lighting highlights the detailed carvings and gives the stonework a luminous quality.A golden altarpiece illuminated under soft light, with a central figure of the Virgin Mary in vivid red, set among detailed carvings and religious paintings. Above, colorful stained glass windows allow natural light to spill into the cathedral’s spacious nave.An opulent side altar made of marbled stone and gilded columns, featuring a crucified Christ figure beneath a scalloped golden niche. The surrounding architecture displays a mix of baroque textures, blending deep reds, golds, and intricate patterns.A richly decorated altar featuring pink marble columns, white statues of angels and saints, and golden rays radiating from a triangle symbol representing the Holy Trinity. The stained glass in the background filters light, enhancing the warmth of the scene.A dramatic upward view of the cathedral ceiling, showcasing elaborately carved golden vaults and ribbed domes, interspersed with stained glass windows. The intricate ceiling patterns glow under interior lighting, creating a breathtaking visual tapestry overhead.Close-up of the cathedral’s exterior facade, highlighting tall fluted columns, arched entrances, detailed stone carvings, and rose-colored marble accents. The classical architecture is imposing yet elegant against the stone plaza.View of the Málaga Cathedral bell tower rising against an overcast sky, with its clock face, balconies, and neoclassical design elements visible. Lush green trees frame the tower from below, adding contrast to the stone structure.

I’ve already confessed my love for alcachofas (artichokes), so Mesón Mariano was heaven: we tried half of their six artichoke dishes.

We loved them “a la plancha” the most, followed by with jamón ibérico and Montillana-style. We also enjoyed their seafood soup, prawns, jamón ibérico, and fried cod.

A plate of grilled artichokes sliced thin, beautifully seared to a golden brown with slightly crispy edges and tender centers, glistening with olive oil and served with a wedge of lemon for brightness. The rustic presentation emphasizes the earthy, rich flavor of the artichokes.Tender artichoke hearts bathed in olive oil and topped with silky slices of jamón ibérico, creating a luscious contrast between the delicate vegetable and the savory, cured ham. The oil pools on the plate, adding a glossy finish that makes the dish look indulgent and rich.Halved artichoke hearts swimming in a light, creamy broth speckled with chopped ham and diced leeks. The broth clings to the vegetables, and the tender leaves show subtle layering, suggesting a soft bite and deep flavor.A chalkboard menu on a brick wall titled “La Alcachofa” (The Artichoke), featuring a list of house specialties centered around artichokes—confited, Montillana-style, salad with tuna belly, grilled, fried, and battered. The vibrant chalk colors and hand-drawn artichoke illustration give a cozy, welcoming feel.A bowl of thick, white soup with visible pieces of seafood—shrimp, white fish, and poached egg—floating in the rich, velvety base. The edges of the bowl are slightly rimmed with soup foam, indicating a warm, freshly served dish.A chilled plate of pink prawns neatly arranged in rows around a lemon wedge. Their glistening shells and slightly translucent appearance suggest freshness and a clean, briny flavor, typical of expertly prepared cold seafood.A circular arrangement of thinly sliced jamón ibérico fanned out across a white plate with a blue rim. The deep reds and glossy fat edges on the ham shimmer under the light, making it look tender and luxurious.Golden, lightly battered cod pieces topped with crispy slivers of garlic, served alongside a fresh tomato and lettuce salad with red onion. The contrast between the crunchy garlic, juicy vegetables, and flaky fish makes the dish look satisfying and well-balanced.A vibrant interior scene with diners in the foreground and a wall full of wine bottles organized in vertical lines against rustic brick. Colorful ceramic plates and a central chalkboard listing daily specials add charm, while fresh fruit on the counter brings a pop of natural color to the cozy, bustling restaurant atmosphere.

The Alcazaba and Castillo de Gibralfaro are next to each other, but we went back to the Gibralfaro the next day.

It was a real workout to get up there but the 14th-century castle had sweeping views of the port, the city, and the mountains beyond. The castle itself is mostly walls and watchtowers.

Two men smiling for a selfie with a panoramic view of Málaga in the background. They are standing on a stone terrace lined with bricks and trees, with the city and surrounding hills stretching into the distance under a clear blue sky. Both wear patterned shirts and sunglasses.View from the Gibralfaro showing the historic and modern cityscape of Málaga, with the port, a large Balearia ferry, and the iconic Málaga Cathedral visible among dense urban buildings. The Mediterranean Sea and distant mountains create a scenic backdrop.Coastal view from a high vantage point showing a stone turret in the foreground and a lighthouse at the tip of a long breakwater in the distance. Below, high-rise buildings border the sea, framed by lush green trees.A peaceful courtyard surrounded by stone walls and cypress trees, with patterned brick walkways and trimmed greenery. Several people walk or rest under the clear blue sky, adding a sense of scale and serenity to the historical setting.Elevated view of Málaga’s port area with deep turquoise waters, yachts, ferries, and shipping cranes. The city’s architecture extends inland toward mountains, with the lush greenery of parkland in the foreground.Tourists gather along a high stone rampart under three waving flags—Andalusia, Spain, and Málaga—on a clear sunny day. A small turret stands at the corner, evoking the structure’s defensive history.A sweeping view of Málaga’s harbor with ships docked along the waterfront and a tree-lined hillside leading down to the city. The azure sea meets the skyline under a pristine blue sky, framed by fortress walls.A detailed architectural scale model showing the layout of Málaga, featuring the hilltop fortress, historical buildings, and organized avenues lined with miniature trees. The model offers a top-down perspective with fine detail in terrain and structures.View through trees of the Mediterranean Sea and Málaga’s coastal skyline, with a large circular bullring among modern apartment buildings. The calm, blue water stretches to the horizon beneath a cloudless sky.

El Tintero was a unique dining experience—you don’t order food. Instead, as dishes are cooked, servers bring them and call out what they are to the diners waiting. You wave to the server to bring it to your table, and at the end, they bill you based on how many (and what type) of plates you had.

Large open-air seaside restaurant bustling with people seated at rows of blue-and-white checkered tables under a straw canopy. Diners enjoy food in a lively, shaded atmosphere with servers moving between tables.Industrial-style open kitchen with large charcoal grills and trays of food in preparation. Cooks in black uniforms work near the smoky grills, with skewers and meats visibly charring over hot coals.Platter of freshly steamed coquinas (wedge clams) garnished with parsley and served with a lemon wedge. The shells glisten in natural light, showing purple and cream hues.White plate filled with boiled prawns, served whole with heads and shells intact. The shrimp have a fresh pink-orange color and glisten in dappled sunlight.Grilled scallops served in their shells on a bed of shredded lettuce, with vibrant orange roe and plump white flesh, garnished with a wedge of lemon.Plate of golden, crispy fried cod fritters speckled with green herbs, served with a generous dollop of smooth garlic aioli on the side.Hearty serving of seafood paella featuring saffron-tinted rice mixed with mussels, shrimp, squid, and vegetables. A lemon wedge sits on the rim of the plate.Chargrilled fish fillet served on a metal tray atop shredded lettuce and tomato slices. The fish has a crispy, golden skin and is garnished with herbs and lemon wedges.Plate of grilled sardines arranged in neat rows on a rustic blue plate, their silvery skin slightly charred. A lemon wedge is placed to the side for squeezing.

On Monday we went to the Alcazaba in Málaga, an 11th century Moorish fortress that offered us great views of the city and the sea. Most of the castle was in ruins but there was some beautiful art mixed in. The Roman theater sits at the base, but oddly wasn’t available to walk through.

Two smiling partners take a selfie in front of the Alcazaba’s fortified walls, surrounded by dense greenery and tall cypress trees. The sun shines brightly, casting clear light over the historic stone towers.Panoramic view of the Roman Theatre in Malaga with tiered stone seating and a wooden stage area below. Behind the theatre, the fortified walls and towers of the Alcazaba rise along the hillside under a cloudless blue sky.A walkway along the Alcazaba’s outer walls, flanked by stone towers and shaded by tall trees. A flowering jacaranda tree adds a splash of purple to the left, with clear blue sky overhead.View through a stone archway into a lush garden filled with palm trees, yucca plants, and other greenery. In the background, the reddish stone walls of the Alcazaba rise against a deep blue sky.A detailed scale model of the Alcazaba displayed under glass, showing its full layout with fortified walls, towers, inner courtyards, and residential buildings. The miniature includes textures, vegetation, and terrain for realism.A cityscape view from above looking toward the Mediterranean Sea, with a circular bullring, tree-lined streets, and apartment buildings in the foreground. Hills and a distant lighthouse are visible along the horizon.

Sevilla

It was a joy to be in Sevilla for a week. These are all the posts I made about the city:

The food was consistently great—I think we only had a couple misses our entire week there. We had a few places we went back to multiple times (Eslava, Bodega Dos de Mayo, and Bodega Mateo Ruiz) because they were delicious.

I think my favorite landmarks were the Catedral de Sevilla, the Plaza de España, and the Real Alcázar. It was neat that we were there the same time as Feria de Abril and got to see so many people dressed up for the occasion, but it definitely is more of a locals fair and, to me, not something to plan a trip around.

We stayed in the Feria neighborhood, which had a lot of things around it but wasn’t directly in the city center (and thus not too loud or busy). The bus stops we used were a short walking distance from our place.

We had a really rocky time with the apartment we booked directly online with a property manager. They didn’t send us the apartment’s info until a day before, then actually sent us the info for two apartments, and they were very inconsistent with responding to either one of us (over email and WhatsApp). The actual apartment was great, but in the future, we’re going to pay a little extra through Airbnb for the peace of mind.

The weather tends to peak at around 5 PM every day, and there were a few days where it got into the 80°s. I’m glad we visited in May and not during the hotter summer months.

Overall, I would be very happy to spend more time in Sevilla, as long as we could avoid the heat. ☀️

A large circular fountain in Plaza de España sends powerful jets of water into the air, surrounded by a wide, patterned tile plaza where people stroll, sit on the fountain’s edge, and take photos. A man in shorts taking a photo on his phone feels like a mirror to the photographer. The backdrop features dense green trees, ornate lampposts, and a bright blue sky, evoking a lively, summery atmosphere.A taxidermied black bull’s head is mounted on a yellow stucco wall beneath a richly detailed wooden ceiling, with one large horn dramatically curved forward. The bull’s dark, glossy coat and expressive eye are highlighted by natural light, showcasing the traditional style of Spanish bullfighting memorabilia.The cozy interior of Bar El Comercio features a vintage espresso setup with shiny metal coffee pots, a mirrored sign advertising Anís Machaquito, and blackboards listing house vermouth, natural orange juice, and tapas. The space is painted in bright yellow with wooden beams and rustic decor that evoke a classic Andalusian bar atmosphere.A narrow pedestrian alleyway lined with tall, whitewashed buildings on both sides, each adorned with green wrought-iron balconies and overflowing with potted plants and hanging vines. Two people walk side by side into the sunlit end of the alley, creating a sense of quiet charm in this residential neighborhood.An expansive staircase with decorative ceramic tile risers and black wrought-iron railings ascends through a grand interior hall. The surrounding walls are covered in geometric azulejo tiles, and an ornate lantern hangs from above. Multiple people walk or pause on different landings, highlighting the scale and elegance of the space.A neatly wrapped paper package from La Campana, a historic pastry shop in Seville, features blue printed branding with a bell logo and decorative script. The package is tied with white string and rests on a beige countertop, suggesting a freshly purchased dessert or pastry.Close-up of an ornate coffered ceiling showcasing a symmetrical starburst design made of interlocking geometric shapes in gold, red, and blue. Small coats of arms and floral motifs are embedded in the pattern, highlighting the influence of Mudéjar art and craftsmanship.A narrow urban street lined with parked cars and flanked by traditional Spanish buildings painted in warm tones of yellow, red, and white. Decorative iron balconies hold potted plants, and pedestrians walk along the sidewalks. In the distance, modern apartment buildings rise, blending old and new architecture under a bright blue sky.A large chalkboard wall inside Café Hércules displays handwritten Spanish menu items including tapas, vermouth, wines, and breakfast choices, surrounded by hand-drawn illustrations like a bicycle and teacups. The colorful, whimsical typography and hanging birdcage contribute to the eclectic, creative vibe of the café.

Achievement unlocked: an older man asked me in Spanish for directions. Unfortunately my hands were full and I couldn’t help him. 😢