Some food shoutouts:

A sizzling cast-iron platter with thick slices of grilled duck, seared to a deep golden-brown and topped with coarse sea salt. Surrounding the meat are roasted shallots glistening in a rich layer of pan juices, creating a rustic and hearty presentation that emphasizes the meat’s tenderness and flavor.A terra-cotta dish filled with sizzling garlic shrimp swimming in bubbling olive oil, speckled with bits of fresh parsley. The shrimp appear plump and juicy, their slight char and vibrant color enhancing the sense of flavor and heat.Two thick, golden pieces of battered cod served on a plain white plate, their crunchy exterior glowing in the sunlight. The drink beside them, a dark soda in a glass branded with “Mahou”, adds a local touch and refreshing contrast to the hearty fried fish.A terracotta plate with a skewer of grilled marinated pork, slightly charred and coated in a vibrant red sauce. Alongside are a few chunky fried potatoes, partially covered in the same sauce, creating a simple yet flavorful presentation.Two wine glasses—one filled with deep red wine, the other with a rosé—set on a light wooden table next to a small bowl of green olives and a few potato chips. The ambient light and casual tapas pairing evoke a relaxed, elegant dining atmosphere.A bakery display case with sugar-dusted pastries filled with chocolate cream, their golden, flaky crusts slightly glossy under the lighting. The neat rows and rich filling peeking through the sides make these treats visually tempting and indulgent.

Hugo got a chance to go into the Royal Palace on a tour; unfortunately I wasn’t feeling great that afternoon, so the next morning we walked around the palace (and the Almudena Cathedral) a bit to see the outside of both and the beautiful sights over parts of the city we never ventured into.

Wide-angle view of the Royal Palace of Madrid, with its grand neoclassical façade featuring rows of tall columns, numerous windows, and ornate sculptures. The Spanish flag flies prominently from the roof. The expansive forecourt in front of the building is paved with geometric stone patterns, and scattered visitors walk or stand, giving a sense of scale to the immense structure. The sky is clear and blue, enhancing the elegance and formality of the architecture.Closer view of the central section of the Royal Palace of Madrid, highlighting the symmetrical stonework, decorative columns, and arched doorways. A large clock is set into the ornate pediment above the entrance, flanked by classical statues. The Spanish flag waves atop the building, and several people move across the stone courtyard in the foreground, some pausing to admire the architecture.Panoramic view of the Madrid cityscape with dense urban buildings stretching to the horizon. In the foreground, a sea of green treetops forms a natural contrast to the red and brown rooftops and modern high-rises beyond. The clear sky adds depth and vibrancy, enhancing the layered textures of trees, mid-century blocks, and distant towers.View of the Almudena Cathedral’s bell tower and façade taken from below, emphasizing the tower’s verticality and classical detailing. A dark bronze statue of a bearded figure holding a scroll stands prominently on the right, casting a shadow on the stone wall. A group of people is gathered in the shaded area near the base, while others sit on the steps along the cathedral’s base under a bright sky.Lively street-level view of the Almudena Cathedral from an angle that showcases its detailed exterior, including baroque and neoclassical elements, multiple spires, and the central dome. Crowds gather at the cathedral’s entrance, and a person in a Stitch costume adds a playful touch near signage for the museum. The vibrant activity and crisp shadows emphasize the warm, sunny day.Street scene in front of the Almudena Cathedral with a mix of tourists, vehicles, and historic architecture. The cathedral’s ornate dome and towers rise prominently against a clear blue sky. A steady flow of cars, including a marked taxi and an ambulance, passes along the busy road. Trees and signage frame the scene, capturing the dynamic intersection of city life and monumental history.

We popped into Mercado Jamón Ibérico for our last jamón 100% ibérico de bellota tasting.

As much as I’m not a huge pork-product person at home, I want to find it near Long Beach for a special treat a couple times a year.

A plate of finely sliced Jamón Ibérico de Bellota, arranged in a circular pattern to showcase the marbling and deep reddish hues of the cured ham. The translucent slices reveal streaks of intramuscular fat, indicating the high quality of the meat. The glossy surface and delicate texture make it look rich and savory, with a small sign at the top of the plate labeling it as “Jamón 100% Ibérico Bellota.”An interior view of a jamón shop with multiple legs of cured ham hanging on black hooks behind the counter, each tagged with red and black labels reading “Bellota.” Chalkboard signs display different types and prices of jamón per kilo, including 100% Ibérico and 75% Ibérico. A carving station in the foreground features a mounted ham leg and slicing knives, with vacuum-sealed packs of jamón and glassware neatly arranged below.A cozy, rustic jamón shop corner with a photo mural of black Iberian pigs grazing in a wooded pasture, reinforcing the source of the high-quality meat. On the adjacent wall, several paletillas (front legs of jamón) hang beneath signs noting their type and price. Informational plaques explain the feeding and curing process, and a small table with chairs adds a welcoming touch to the tasting area.

We went to the Monasterio del Corpus Christi las Carboneras to buy cookies from the cloistered nuns, but a sign on the door said no sweets until Monday.

When we went inside the church, I was surprised that even a little church still had gold-covered altars and ornate paintings.

Close-up of a worn brown wooden door with metal studs and a laminated sign taped to the center panel. The sign is printed in both Spanish and English and reads: “No hay dulces hasta el LUNES. There are not Sweets until MONDAY. THANK YOU.” The door’s aged texture and chipped paint add a rustic character to the scene.Full view of a tall, dark brown wooden door set in a stone frame, featuring a pattern of square and diamond-studded panels. A small laminated notice is posted on one side of the door. A security camera is mounted above, and a “Mind your head” warning label is attached to the door lintel. The weathered surface and heavy design convey a sense of historical weight.Interior of a richly decorated chapel featuring an elaborate golden altarpiece with religious statues and paintings. Rows of wooden pews are filled with seated visitors facing the altar. The warm yellow walls, arched ceilings, and framed religious art contribute to a peaceful and reverent atmosphere.

We stopped into Pastelería El Riojano for a quick soletilla con chocolate and it was delicious! The melted chocolate was rich and the ladyfingers were very soft sponge. Their other desserts and ice creams looked great too!

A thick cup of Spanish hot chocolate sits on a white saucer with an ornate handle and a silver spoon, paired with a soft, golden sponge cake dusted lightly with powdered sugar. Both are served on fine white porcelain dishes embossed with patterns and marked with the name “El Riojano” in cobalt blue, evoking a sense of elegance and tradition. The chocolate’s glossy surface and dense texture contrast invitingly with the tender, airy look of the cake.A well-lit glass pastry display brims with traditional Spanish baked goods arranged across three shelves. Each level features neatly labeled treats such as empanadas, croissants, napolitanas, puff pastries, and cookies, framed by a backdrop of decorative jars and an opulent wooden and brass case. The abundance and variety—ranging from flaky to golden to sugar-dusted—create a tempting and indulgent visual feast.Rows of assorted cookies and pastries fill a glass display, organized by type and color in visually pleasing symmetry. The front row features geometric butter cookies, golden spirals, and nut-topped rounds, while the background highlights chocolate-dipped biscuits and striped pastries. The reflection of customers adds a candid charm to the elegant setting, capturing the moment of choice at a classic pastry counter.A freezer case of artisanal ice cream showcases over a dozen flavors in stainless steel tubs, each labeled with handwritten signs. Vibrant colors—from mango yellow and pistachio green to deep chocolate brown and bright raspberry pink—suggest creamy, rich textures and diverse taste profiles. The inviting presentation emphasizes freshness and variety, ideal for sampling on a warm day.A vintage black-and-white photograph of a traditional storefront labeled “El Riojano,” featuring ornate classical columns and carved wooden detailing around a narrow entrance. Two window displays on either side show tiered trays of confections and pastries, while the words “Repostería” and “Confitería” above the door frame the scene. The nostalgic ambiance reflects old-world charm and a long-standing legacy of fine pastry-making.

We popped into Mercado de San Miguel for cava and were surprised this market was entirely food stalls (unlike València and Málaga, which were focused on fresh groceries).

I especially loved the wall art with subtle gay-themed stop signs to mimic the actual stop signs throughout Madrid.

The exterior of Mercado de San Miguel, a historic iron-and-glass market building with ornate architectural details, large glass panels, and decorative wrought-iron signage. The reflections on the glass showcase the surrounding plaza, while a crowd of people gather outside—some sitting on the low railing, others walking or entering through the central doorway.Close-up of a glass display case filled with colorful skewers of marinated olives, cheese, cherry tomatoes, pickles, and cured meats. The skewers are arranged in neat pyramids, with glossy textures and vibrant colors that highlight their freshness and variety. Jars of green and stuffed olives add to the visual appeal, and the reflection of customers adds a dynamic sense of movement.Bustling interior of the market with a crowd of visitors navigating food stalls beneath a vaulted ceiling with exposed iron trusses and terracotta tiles. The warm ambient light and wooden stall facades create a cozy yet vibrant atmosphere. Hanging signage and black pendant lamps help define each vendor space, with people lining up for tapas and drinks.A wall mural made of glossy ceramic tiles featuring a loosely sketched illustration of a red-haired woman in a tank top, holding her hand to her head. The scene includes minimalistic figures and stylized street signs, with reflections of the market’s interior and a view of the building across the street visible through the adjacent window.Street scene in Madrid showing a pedestrian traffic light with a green signal featuring two figures holding hands, commonly used as a symbol of LGBTQ+ inclusion. The surrounding area includes modern and historic buildings, various street signs, and several pedestrians walking or waiting.Urban intersection with a green pedestrian signal showing two red figures holding hands. The scene includes a mix of modern and traditional buildings, a digital parking sign, and a busy sidewalk with people crossing or walking in different directions.

We went to Taberna Sanlúcar and really enjoyed the alcachofa, adobo sanluqueño, garbanzos con espinacas y bacalao, and of course the jamón ibérico. The place was packed when we arrived; we waited for a bit to sit at the bar and eat. Many people came and were turned away because they were so busy.

A beautifully presented fried artichoke, sliced thin and fanned out in a flower-like shape, with crisp, golden-brown edges and a tender, translucent interior. It glistens with olive oil and is sprinkled with coarse sea salt and paprika, creating an elegant balance of texture and seasoning.A plate of Adobo Sanluqueño, featuring bite-sized pieces of marinated dogfish coated in a light, golden batter and deep-fried to a crisp. The irregularly shaped pieces hint at a rustic, home-style preparation. Presented on a traditional Andalusian ceramic plate, the dish looks crunchy, savory, and inviting.A bowl of garbanzos con espinacas y bacalao, a traditional Cádiz dish made with chickpeas, spinach, and salted cod. The stew is rich and hearty, with visible chunks of flaked fish and greens in a glistening golden broth. A garnish of chopped boiled egg adds visual texture, and the patterned ceramic bowl enhances its rustic presentation.A plate of finely sliced jamón ibérico, arranged in overlapping layers to highlight the marbled fat and deep red hues of the cured meat. The slices glisten with natural oils, suggesting a melt-in-your-mouth texture. The decorative ceramic plate adds a refined, traditional touch.The interior of a traditional Cádiz-style taberna, warmly lit and filled with character. Hanging cured hams, shelves of vintage bottles, and rustic wooden beams frame the scene. A Cádiz C.F. 1910 scarf draped across a mirror adds local pride, while fresh herbs, grapes, and cheeses at the bar create a cozy and authentic atmosphere.

My dad’s one recommendation for Madrid was visiting the Museo Nacional del Prado—it was a great recommendation! We did the two-hour self-guided tour which only highlighted 1–2 paintings in each room.

No photos allowed, so just a few photos from the outside.

Front view of the Museo del Prado’s main entrance, featuring neoclassical columns, a frieze with sculpted figures, and the museum name in capital letters above the portico. A group of visitors stands in front of the entrance, while a Policia Nacional car is parked in the foreground. Tall trees partially frame the scene on both sides under a clear blue sky.Large exhibition banner for “Paolo Veronese (1528–1588)” displayed on an exterior wall of the museum. The banner shows a detail from one of Veronese’s paintings, with richly dressed figures in dramatic poses rendered in warm tones. Exhibition dates are listed as May 27 to September 21, 2025, and the organizing institutions are noted at the bottom.Angled view of the Museo del Prado’s entrance framed by trees, emphasizing the symmetry of the neoclassical architecture and the texture of the stone columns. A small group of people rests in the shade beneath the columns. The sky is bright and clear, and the surrounding greenery adds contrast to the pale stone facade.View of San Jerónimo el Real, a Gothic church behind the Museo del Prado. The church’s ornate facade with pointed arches and decorative pinnacles stands out against a deep blue sky. The building is situated atop a grassy hill, where a lone visitor in yellow sits facing the structure, emphasizing its scale and serenity.

We went to Taberna La Concha a couple of times because we loved their pollo en curry rojo, ensalada de tomate y Mozarella (with a tasty honey-mustard vinaigrette), and tosta de salmón (with tzatziki). The waiters were fun and they always gave us chocolate truffles (for free) when we paid.

Pollo en curry rojo served in a wide bowl, featuring tender chunks of chicken stewed in a spiced red curry sauce with carrots and onions. A molded dome of white rice topped with black sea salt flakes provides a clean contrast to the deep, glossy broth, creating a rich and comforting presentation.Ensalada de tomate y Mozarella con vinagreta de mostaza y miel, artfully stacked with thick slices of tomato, leafy greens, and rounds of mozzarella cheese. The tower is topped with creamy mustard-honey vinaigrette and speckled with crushed black olives or seeds, served on an ornate clear glass plate that enhances its elegant presentation.Tosta de salmón con tzatziki, featuring a large slice of toasted bread topped with silky smoked salmon, creamy dollops of tzatziki sauce, and spoonfuls of black caviar. Garnished with purple edible flowers, the dish offers a luxurious combination of color, texture, and rich flavors.Small cast-iron pots filled with a creamy potato and tuna salad, speckled with diced vegetables such as red pepper and pickles. Served on a slate board with metal spoons, the rustic presentation highlights a traditional tapa with comforting, chilled textures.Three hand-formed chocolate truffles with a rough, rustic finish, dusted lightly with powdered sugar and arranged on a matte black slate. The cracked surfaces and rich brown color suggest a dense, fudgy interior, offering an indulgent, artisanal dessert experience.Interior shot of the wine and bar area at Taberna La Concha, featuring a gold-framed chalkboard listing Jerez wines, a wall-mounted rack of white wine bottles, and rows of glassware hanging from copper shelving. Warm, vintage-style pendant lights and layered signage contribute to a cozy and curated atmosphere.Decorative wall display with life-sized vintage cutouts of a woman and man, mid-century wall clocks, and retro signage promoting the house vermouth cocktail “Manuela.” Martini glass illustrations and warm overhead lighting evoke an old-Hollywood charm with a playful twist.

Trains in Spain

We took hi-speed Renfe trains between Sevilla, Málaga, and Granada.

The booking process online was straightforward enough. We booked all of them in advance so we could pick good times and select our seats.

Two of our three trains were delayed—I think the longest wait was another 30–45 minutes, so not too long.

Every station had security, but it was very light and just consisted of a metal detector and putting our bags through a machine. No taking electronics out, no taking off shoes, etc.

All of the stations had at least a little cafe from which to grab something to eat, which was nice.

Overall, I’d definitely recommend taking the hi-speed trains to get around! They are slower than flying but more convenient in just about every other aspect.

A small white utility structure with a curved detail on its front stands in a golden field of dry grass. Behind it, rows of trees and patchwork farmland stretch across rolling hills under a pale blue sky with wispy clouds. Two large trees flank the structure, adding contrast and framing the rural scene with natural balance.A wide expanse of lush green farmland stretches toward a densely planted hillside, where rows of vegetation are being misted by a network of irrigation sprinklers. The light catches the fine spray, adding a dynamic shimmer beneath a soft blue sky streaked with light clouds.A scenic patchwork of cultivated fields and olive groves spreads across a valley surrounded by gently sloping mountains. Clusters of white buildings with terracotta roofs dot the landscape, with winding roads connecting them. The late afternoon sun casts warm light and long shadows, enhancing the contrast between the golden fields and green vegetation under a vibrant sky with scattered clouds.Neatly aligned rows of crops cover a rolling landscape, with a dirt path cutting through the center and leading to a small grove of tall trees at the horizon. A wire fence runs parallel to the viewer’s vantage point, adding depth to the image. The rich green vegetation contrasts with the soft blue sky, evoking a sense of organized agricultural beauty.Terraced fields and olive groves spread across a sloping valley, leading up to a rugged mountain peak that rises sharply in the distance. White and tan buildings with tiled roofs are tucked among dense greenery at the base of the hills, with layers of vegetation adding texture and color to the foreground. A crisp blue sky enhances the sense of elevation and openness.A view through a train window reveals a sweeping agricultural landscape of alternating plowed and harvested fields in shades of brown and yellow. The rhythmic pattern of the farmland is punctuated by a few scattered trees and distant groves, with soft hills rolling into the background under a pale blue sky.

Granada

Granada was a cute college town with beautiful sights and a unique tapas culture.

These are all the posts I made about the city:

I loved the unique tapas culture here, where basically every round of drinks comes with a “free” tapa (some of the prices are a little higher)—if you’re cheap and out to drink, you could get away with eating for free. We never intentionally did this because we wanted larger portions and not to drink so much, but it was fun to see what each restaurant would bring out first for free.

We only went back to one restaurant multiple times (Restaurante Oliver), but we were also only here for four nights, so we didn’t have as much time for repeats. I wish we had been able to go back to Rincón de Rodri, and there were still more places in my Apple Maps guide that I wish we had been able to visit.

On separate nights we walked up to the Mirador de San Nicolás and Jardines y Generalife; both were a good workout. I’m bummed we didn’t get to go into the Alhambra itself, and I’d want to return and make sure we got tickets for that.

Our Airbnb near the city center was great, and the city was relatively small anyway so it was easy to walk around. We never used the bus system because we walked from the train to our apartment.

Overall, I’d love to come back to Granada to see the Alhambra and experience the unique tapas culture again.

Close-up view of ornate pinnacles atop the Royal Chapel of Granada, showcasing the elaborate late Gothic (Isabelline) stone carvings against a cloudless blue sky. The vertical structures are highly detailed with vegetal and geometric motifs, emphasizing the grandeur of the architecture.Panoramic view of the Alhambra palace complex illuminated at twilight, perched atop a forested hill with the Sierra Nevada mountains faintly snow-capped in the background. The warm lights cast a golden hue on the ancient stone walls, contrasting beautifully with the blue sky and shadowed trees below.Narrow cobblestone street flanked by whitewashed buildings in the Albaicín neighborhood, with wrought iron balconies and leafy vines draping over the path. The alley gently slopes uphill, drawing the eye toward a small tower and distant mountains beyond.Intricately detailed ceiling of the main chapel in Granada Cathedral, featuring a coffered dome with geometric patterns, sculpted cherubs, and ornamental stucco work. Natural light streams through stained glass windows, highlighting the richness and symmetry of the Renaissance design.Framed view from a narrow alleyway toward the Sacromonte hillside bathed in golden evening light. The foreground is lined with traditional white Andalusian buildings and wrought iron balconies, leading to a sunlit cluster of houses atop the dry, grassy slope.Exterior corner of the Royal Chapel of Granada with its pale stone walls and decorative Gothic tracery. The vertical spires and cresting finials are richly carved and silhouetted sharply against a vivid blue sky, underscoring the building’s historic and architectural significance.Spanish graffiti on a pinkish-brown wall written in black marker, expressing a wistful message in Spanish about love, longing, and missing the chance to see the Alhambra together. It’s dated 07/04/2025 and written in a casual, personal script.Wall with multiple pieces of graffiti, including a poetic quote in Spanish referencing Granada, a stylized Instagram handle, and a black wavy line. The quote is written diagonally and speaks to the hardship of being blind in such a beautiful place.Busy pedestrian street in Granada lined with multistory buildings featuring wrought iron balconies and hanging lamps. A dense crowd walks beneath leafy trees, with a few people in the foreground wearing casual clothes. The vibrant scene captures the energy of an early evening paseo.

Some more shots from walking around Granada. Along with standard ornate cathedrals and such, it felt like there was a lot more graffiti and art in Granada than València or Málaga, maybe due to Granada being more of a college town than the others.

Close-up of an ornate bell tower with Baroque architectural details, featuring a domed roof and a statue of a robed angel holding a palm frond and a sword on top. The building’s warm sandstone surface is illuminated by golden hour sunlight, casting deep shadows and highlighting intricate carvings, including classical figures and decorative reliefs.View of a historic stone church framed by modern buildings, with a bell tower topped by a weather vane rising above lush greenery and cypress trees. The late afternoon sun casts a soft golden light on the architecture, creating a warm contrast with the deep blue sky.Gothic-style stone building with highly ornate spires and decorative pinnacles silhouetted against a vivid blue sky. The facade features pointed arches, intricate tracery, and sculpted details, showcasing exquisite craftsmanship and dramatic verticality.Narrow cobblestone street lined with traditional buildings and balconies, leading toward a domed cathedral in the distance. People stroll along the pedestrian zone, while a few cars are parked nearby. The symmetry of the architecture and the dome framed between buildings creates a visually pleasing composition.Panoramic view of a cityscape with rooftops, church towers, and antennas extending into the distance under a clear blue sky. In the foreground, a weathered stone wall covered in colorful graffiti adds an urban, contemporary contrast to the historic skyline.Twilight scene of a sloped alley lined with whitewashed houses and rustic balconies, leading up toward a hillside chapel with terraced terrain. A glowing streetlamp illuminates the path, casting a cozy, nostalgic atmosphere over the old quarter’s narrow passageway.Graffiti-covered metal shutter of a closed pharmacy storefront, featuring a stylized blue mortar and pestle with “Farmacia” and other words painted across it. The surrounding tags, including names of medications and symbols, add layers of visual texture and urban commentary.Deserted alley at night lit by a series of vintage streetlamps, casting warm pools of light on the stone pavement. The narrow corridor is flanked by old buildings with wrought iron balconies and shuttered windows, evoking a quiet, timeless mood.Minimalist graffiti text in black ink reading “nothing gold can stay” on a smooth beige wall. The handwritten style and simplicity of the phrase evoke a quiet, poetic sentiment.Dimly lit street at night with old buildings and hanging balconies, illuminated by warm streetlights. Two people walk in the distance, casting long shadows as the red glow of a traffic light reflects on the pavement, creating a cinematic and moody atmosphere.

After three weeks in Spain, we got Hotpot (photos 1–2) and it was delicious.

Taberna Andaluza (3–4) served us potatoes with fried egg and croquettes with jamón.

We popped into Venga Vino (5–6) and (like everywhere else) they gave us “free” tapas when we ordered a drink.

Same for Mítico Bar (7–8).

A table set for hotpot with a dual-section pot containing clear and spicy broths, both simmering with assorted mushrooms. Surrounding the pot are plates of fresh ingredients: leafy greens, enoki, shiitake, and wood ear mushrooms, a bowl of thick white noodles, and a plate of raw yellow ramen noodles. A dipping sauce bowl and a pair of chopsticks rest near an empty serving bowl.A vibrant hotpot meal centered around a dual-section simmering pot with spicy and clear broths, filled with mushrooms and herbs. The table is ringed with neatly arranged slices of raw beef and lamb, fanned around the pot for cooking. On the side are plates of mushrooms, greens, ramen, and udon noodles, creating a visually striking and appetizing spread.A rustic plate featuring a fried egg with a runny yolk served over sautéed potatoes, accompanied by a slice of crusty white bread. The egg white is lightly browned on the edges, and the yolk glistens with a soft center, enhancing the dish’s homely appeal.A serving of golden croquettes with a crisp breadcrumb coating, paired with thick-cut French fries on a white plate. The croquettes are evenly fried and appetizingly arranged, suggesting a crunchy exterior and creamy interior.Two grilled pork loin fillets served atop slices of bread, garnished with a drizzle of herb-infused olive oil. Thin, crispy French fries are piled next to the meat on a patterned ceramic plate, creating a balanced and appealing presentation.Two glass cups of salmorejo, a creamy cold tomato soup, each topped with finely chopped hard-boiled egg and bits of crispy fried ham. Presented on a rustic tile-patterned table, the bright orange color and garnishes create an inviting and traditional Spanish appetizer.A partially eaten plate of migas, a traditional Spanish dish made with fried breadcrumbs, garlic, and pieces of sausage. The dish appears golden and textured, with rich, savory chunks visible among the crumbs. A spoon rests on the plate, indicating it’s mid-meal.A plate of thinly sliced pork loin in a light, seasoned gravy. The meat is tender and moist, coated in a sheen of the savory sauce, served simply on a white plate that highlights the dish’s subtle presentation.

We didn’t get tickets to go inside the Alhambra itself, but we did the Jardines y Generalife night visit and got to walk through the gardens and see the Alhambra again. The intricate Nasrid Islamic stucco and architecture was beautiful.

Not pictured: the strong scent of jasmine.

The Nasrid-era fortress walls and towers of the Alcazaba at the Alhambra glow with golden lighting at dusk, framed by manicured hedges and tall cypress trees under a clear evening sky.View of the Torre de la Vela at the Alhambra lit against a deep blue twilight sky, with the illuminated Albaicín neighborhood sprawling across the valley in the background under dramatic clouds.Night view of the Church of Santa María de la Alhambra, its richly textured brickwork and Renaissance details highlighted by exterior lighting, with cypress trees and nearby structures in shadow.Panoramic nighttime view of the Alhambra complex from a distance, with its illuminated towers and walls—including the Torre de Comares and Torre de la Vela—rising above treetops, and the lights of Granada city twinkling in the background.The Generalife’s Patio de la Acequia at night, with a central water channel bordered by arching fountains and symmetrical garden beds, leading toward a colonnaded hall adorned with intricate stucco work.Detailed view of ornate stucco and calligraphic inscriptions in Arabic from a wall and archway inside the Nasrid Palaces, showcasing the fine craftsmanship of Islamic architecture at the Alhambra.A rose-covered archway in the Generalife gardens at night, with clusters of coral-pink blooms climbing a metal trellis over a pebbled path, surrounded by rows of trimmed hedges and dark cypress trees.A quiet courtyard near the Generalife, with a small circular stone fountain in the foreground and a softly lit staircase leading to a doorway where a group of visitors stands under a warm light.Close-up of a wall covered in blooming jasmine, with dozens of star-shaped white flowers and dense green leaves brightly illuminated against the night.Nighttime view of the Alhambra complex from a distance, with its iconic towers and palace structures—such as the Alcazaba and Palacio de Carlos V—bathed in golden light against the dark hillside.

At the base of the church is the Mirador de San Nicolás, a plaza which is a beautiful viewpoint for seeing the Alhambra.

We didn’t stick around long enough for the actual sunset but still caught some great views. I would love to come again at sunset, or even dawn. 🌅

The Alhambra illuminated at dusk, with golden light highlighting the reddish stone walls and towers against a deepening blue sky. Cypress trees line the outer perimeter of the fortress, and the silhouettes of distant mountains frame the background.Wide view of the Alhambra in early evening light, perched above the Albaicín neighborhood of Granada. The terracotta roofs of whitewashed houses spread out in the foreground, with the fortress standing prominently above dense green vegetation and backed by distant mountains.Panoramic view of the Alhambra at sunset, bathed in warm light and framed by surrounding trees. A rooftop terrace with patrons is visible in the foreground, and the city of Granada extends into the distance under a soft, pale sky.Evening view of the Alhambra fully illuminated, stretching across the hilltop with golden floodlights emphasizing its towers and walls. Snow-capped mountains are faintly visible in the background, and the rooftops of the Albaicín appear in the foreground below.Panoramic twilight view of the Alhambra glowing under floodlights, with towers and walls sharply defined against a darkening sky. The rooftops of the Albaicín and several terrace structures are visible in the foreground, adding a sense of depth and scale.Narrow alleyway leading downhill with the Alhambra visible in the distance, softly lit against the night sky. A wall-mounted light casts a glow on the whitewashed buildings, and a utility pole covered in stickers is in sharp focus beside a wall with handwritten graffiti in Spanish.Framed nighttime view of the Alhambra glowing in the distance, seen between traditional Andalusian buildings with tile roofs and wooden balconies. Warm street lighting and the deep blue sky create a peaceful, atmospheric scene.

We walked up the bell tower at Iglesia de San Nicolás for some of the best views of Granada and the Alhambra.

Inside, the church has a glowing stained-glass ceiling that radiates with celestial color. The iconographic paintings echo Ethiopian Christian tradition with saints, symbols, and stories.

Two smiling people posing between whitewashed walls with a stunning panoramic view of the Alhambra in the background, perched on a lush hill above the city of Granada. The late afternoon sunlight casts a golden hue over the fortress and surrounding town, while mountains stretch along the horizon.Close-up view of the Alhambra’s reddish stone walls and towers, surrounded by dense greenery. The mountains in the distance and the clear blue sky enhance the dramatic setting of the historic Moorish palace and fortress.Interior of a chapel with a vivid, modern stained-glass ceiling in swirling colors, set above ribbed Gothic-style arches. Below, religious artwork and sculptures are displayed near an altar, blending traditional and contemporary elements.Upward view of a tall white bell tower with small arched openings, capped by a red-tiled roof. The clean lines and bright stucco façade contrast sharply against the deep blue sky.Vibrant religious mural depicting saints and holy figures in stylized, symmetrical arrangements. Rich gold and red tones, along with intricate patterns, highlight the iconographic Ethiopian Christian art style.Religious mural showing a group of saints and apostles surrounding the Virgin Mary, with flames of Pentecost above their heads and a white dove at the top symbolizing the Holy Spirit. Bold lines and bright, flat colors define the stylized iconography.Detailed view of a vivid stained-glass dome ceiling, composed of triangular panels radiating from a central point. The abstract artwork features a mix of bright blues, purples, and reds, creating a celestial effect against the Gothic architecture.Wide shot of the Alhambra complex on a wooded hill, with its full array of palaces, towers, and defensive walls clearly visible. The foreground includes white buildings and cypress trees of the Albaicín neighborhood, with the Sierra Nevada mountains in the distance.Bell tower made of pale brick and stone, viewed from a low angle against a clear sky. The red-tiled roof and architectural details highlight the Moorish and Andalusian influences typical of the area.Close-up of a white brick bell tower with a pair of arched openings near the top and Arabic calligraphy-style ornamentation just below the roof. The warm evening light accentuates the texture of the walls and wooden roof beams.

We went to Rincón de Rodri and really enjoyed their zamburiñas (scallops), paella de mariscos (seafood paella), gambas al ajillo (garlic shrimp), and tomate aliñado (seasoned tomato salad). For “free” (when we ordered drinks) they also gave us the fritura de gambas (fried shrimp).

Grilled scallops served in their shells, each delicately charred and topped with minced garlic and olive oil. The shells display natural hues of purple and white, enhancing the seafood’s golden sear and glistening texture. Presented on a white ceramic plate, the dish looks fresh, rich, and flavorful.A heaping plate of seafood paella with vivid golden-yellow rice, generously studded with green bell pepper, shell-on prawns, mussels, and a langoustine. The rice appears moist and glossy, capturing the essence of a well-made sofrito and rich seafood stock.A bowl of sizzling gambas al ajillo—plump shrimp and diced garlic swimming in hot olive oil. The prawns are pink and slightly curled, with golden garlic bits adding texture and a savory aroma. The oil’s sheen reflects the warmth and flavor of the dish.Heirloom tomato salad with a vibrant mix of red, purple, and green tomato wedges, generously drizzled with a bright green garlic and herb dressing. The tomatoes look juicy and ripe, and the chunky dressing gives a rustic, homemade appeal.A plate piled with crispy, golden fried shrimp served whole, including heads and tails, highlighting their crunchy texture. A dollop of creamy white sauce sits to the side, adding contrast and a hint of indulgence.A fresh seafood display behind glass at the bar, with various fish, shellfish, and crustaceans laid on crushed ice. The counter is lit from above, giving the seafood a vibrant, just-caught look, while the metallic surfaces and stacked wine boxes create an inviting, market-style ambiance.A chalkboard menu listing fresh seafood offerings in handwritten Spanish, framed in light wood. Items include gamba blanca, carabineros, zamburiñas, and ostras, with stars highlighting select dishes. The casual script and simple presentation evoke a sense of local charm and authenticity.

The Granada Cathedral is enormous. Inside, towering columns rise into sweeping arches that seem to hold up the entire sky. Even the “smaller” chapels lining the nave feel monumental. Each one is richly decorated and spacious enough to be a little church on its own.

The grand façade of the Granada Cathedral under a clear blue sky, illuminated by the warm afternoon sun. The Renaissance-style exterior features soaring pilasters, elaborate sculptural reliefs, and three monumental arched entrances. Crowds gather along the base, suggesting a popular event or gathering. The strong sunlight casts dramatic shadows, emphasizing the depth and detail of the stonework.View of the cathedral’s soaring nave leading to the main altar, framed by towering white columns and vaulted ceilings. The richly ornamented apse glows with golden highlights, housing rows of paintings and stained-glass windows that bathe the interior in multicolored light. Visitors walk quietly among pews, admiring the architectural grandeur and spiritual ambiance.Dramatic upward view of the cathedral’s domed sanctuary, crowned with a celestial blue ceiling adorned with golden stars. Ornate gold detailing and stained-glass windows encircle the dome, while a silver altarpiece shimmers below, surrounded by fresh pink flowers. The composition draws the eye upward, showcasing the majestic verticality and intricate beauty of the space.Baroque side chapel dripping in golden ornamentation, with intricate swirling carvings and religious figures embedded into the walls. A statue of the Virgin Mary stands at the center of the altar, framed by radiant light and surrounded by rich textures. Two visitors gaze up in awe, emphasizing the overwhelming visual impact of the chapel’s lavish design.Close-up of the cathedral’s opulent pipe organ, mounted above eye level on a gilded platform. A cascade of polished metal pipes fans outward from the ornately carved golden housing, contrasting with the crisp white architecture of the surrounding columns and vaulted ceiling. The composition highlights the grandeur and craftsmanship of the instrument.Side altar framed by rounded white columns and golden trim, featuring a gilded retablo adorned with religious paintings. A central crucifixion scene is flanked by smaller panels, each rich in color and emotion. The setting is contained behind a low metal gate, underscoring its sacred significance within the larger church interior.Another elaborately decorated side altar, showcasing a golden Gothic-style altarpiece beneath an arched ceiling richly painted with ornamental patterns. Above the altar, stained-glass windows filter colored light, enhancing the visual warmth of the gold leaf and stone textures. The surrounding area is framed by white marble columns and filigree details.Close-up view of a stained-glass window set into an ornately decorated stone wall. The vibrant panel depicts religious figures in richly colored robes, their expressions solemn and reverent. Below the window, a gilded architectural element with curving forms and rounded plaques adds depth and texture to the composition.Circular stained-glass window featuring two male religious figures, one older and bearded in brown robes, the other younger in blue. The window is inset into a plain white wall with minimal decoration, allowing the vibrant colors and expressive detail of the glasswork to stand out dramatically against the surrounding simplicity.Vaulted ceiling detail with a symmetrical ribbed pattern, featuring floral and scroll motifs carved in white stone. The design showcases the intricacy of Gothic vault construction, with intersecting arches and decorative bosses creating a harmonious, geometric composition that draws the eye toward the center.

Twice we went to Restaurante Oliver. We loved the alcachofas con almejas (artichokes with clams), almejas chirlas (clams in broth), and the tartar de atún rojo (tuna tartare).

For “free” (when we got drinks) they served us arroz, pescado frito, patatas, and the bocadillo de atún con patatas fritas.

Braised artichoke hearts served upright and filled with a rich tomato-based sauce, topped with small clams in their shells. The artichokes have slightly crisped outer leaves and sit in a pool of the vivid red sauce, adding warmth and intensity to the presentation.A generous portion of small clams in their shells, served in a light green garlic and parsley broth with a wedge of lemon. The clams glisten in the sauce, showcasing their tenderness, while the lemon adds a bright visual accent.Finely diced tuna tartare arranged in a neat mound, glistening with a light marinade and garnished with minced garlic or ginger. Beside it, thin slices of avocado are elegantly fanned out, with a quenelle of creamy white sauce providing contrast in both color and texture.A portion of creamy rice cooked in a rich, saffron-hued broth with visible pieces of vegetables and seafood. The glossy, perfectly al dente grains and the warm orange tone suggest depth of flavor and careful preparation.Golden, crispy chunks of fried fish served simply on a white plate with a dollop of herb-flecked tartar sauce. The batter looks light and flaky, while the sauce adds a creamy and refreshing accompaniment.Two halves of a boiled potato served skin-on and topped with generous spoonfuls of thick green sauce, likely a parsley or herb aioli. The creamy texture of the sauce contrasts with the soft, steaming flesh of the potato.Two small toasted sandwiches filled with tuna, served with a side of golden potato chips. The crisp exterior of the bread contrasts with the soft interior, and the chips are thin and lightly salted.The restaurant’s chalkboard menu mounted on a tiled wall, with classic Spanish dishes written in white chalk under the header “Oliver Restaurante.” The background includes decorative illustrations of seafood, and coffee beans and mugs are visible below, adding character to the setting.

On Monday we went to the Monasterio de San Jerónimo in Granada, a 16th-century monastery that was occupied by Napoleon’s troops during his occupation of Spain in the 19th century. Wild!

Around the cloister garden, dozens of tombstones marked the graves of monks from centuries ago.

Ornate view of the main altar from the nave, showcasing the intricate gilded altarpiece with multiple tiers of religious figures framed by elaborately carved architecture. The domed ceiling above is richly decorated with painted panels and reliefs, while stained glass windows cast colored light into the grand interior. Towering columns and mural-covered walls add to the sense of grandeur.Upward perspective of the stone bell tower and ornate facade, seen against a clear blue sky. The structure features Renaissance-style carvings, a sculpted relief above the main entrance, and detailed coats of arms, emphasizing the building’s historical and architectural richness.Marble grave marker inscribed with the name “Fr. Carlos Dávalos” and the year 1652, set among worn terracotta tiles. The engraved stone stands out against the earthy floor, evoking the long history of the site and its monastic inhabitants.Peaceful courtyard garden with neatly trimmed hedges and rows of lush orange trees laden with fruit. In the background, the upper structure of the monastery rises with stone balustrades, arched windows, and decorative pinnacles under a vivid blue sky.Simple monastic dining hall with long wooden tables and benches lining both sides of the room. Soft natural light enters through small square windows, highlighting the whitewashed walls and brick floor. Religious paintings, including a rendition of the Last Supper, adorn the walls beneath exposed wooden beams.View of the bell tower rising above a courtyard of orange trees, with sunlight filtering through the foliage. The tower’s stone facade features arched openings and a small cross at the top, while the vibrant greenery below creates a serene contrast to the golden stone.Side-angle view of the richly detailed altarpiece, composed of multiple niches filled with polychrome religious statues and gold accents. The vaulted ceiling above is intricately carved and painted, adding depth and drama to the vertical space.Close-up of the upper portion of the altarpiece, highlighting expressive sculpted figures arranged in narrative scenes. The gold-trimmed architectural elements frame each panel, while painted reliefs and figures convey intense emotion and devotion.Fresco of a winged saint painted on a column, depicted in ornate armor holding a shield and sword while standing atop a defeated dragon. Surrounding floral motifs and decorative patterns enrich the scene, reflecting the artistic detail throughout the church interior.Altarpiece framed by soaring columns and detailed frescoes, featuring statues of saints and biblical figures set against a painted backdrop. Above, three arched stained glass windows illuminate the richly decorated apse, bringing light and color into the sacred space.